Every January 20, surely for more than 3 centuries, the population of Couto Dornelas prepares and assembles, in its 3 villages, for one week, the Tables of St. Sebastian.

Two legends are told for this party to be repeated for so long. Both of them, in thanks to St. Sebastian, patron of war, hunger, and pests, would not have imagined, on that date, that we would need him so much in 2020. One of the promises would have been for protection against French invasions, another for protection in the face of a plague that decimated many animals. Whichever is the most credible, it was promised that, on this day, whoever comes to any of the villages will have food on the table.

It’s one of the most beautiful parties that I had the privilege of attending. I confess that I was not prepared.

The day was freezing, the water in the tanks didn't move, trapped by ice sheets, but the cold is part of the party and these people. We look for others to feel warmer and the conversation flows, which goes against the temperature that freezes us.

The path prepares us for what is coming, with the green valleys, the mountains that echo each other in shades of blue that fade, in the background at Marão, the air has the brightness of these cold sunny days. On the way, between Carvalhelhos and Couto Dornelas, we accompany a pot with stewed veal, which Margarete made for the party. It is a beautiful trip, but the smell of this dish tortures our stomachs, fills our mouths with water, and gives no respite.

Arriving at Aldeia Grande, one of the three in the parish of Couto Dornelas, the typical mountain houses of Barroso, are made of granite stone, a gray set far off into the landscape. We entered through the back of one of them, my new friends, yes, Trás-os-Montes is like that, although I didn’t know the owners, Mari and Juan, when I arrived, with the invitation to enter, there is always a friendship for life.

The grill is ready, the table set, the sausages on the fire, and the high Barrosã beef steaks seasoned with salt are ready. Albano Álvares is the maximum guardian of this very special breed, he prepares himself to perfectly grill, the succulent and so tasty meat of this breed. The rye bread does not fail at this supper, accompanied by wine from the farmer.

At the table, we talk about the Barrosã breed, happy animals that graze in green meadows, embroidered with stone, return daily to their courts, where they spend the night in the shelter. Its horns in the lyre, allow to distinguish them at a distance from any other breed, are one of the points of pride of this region, distinguished as an agricultural landscape protected by UNESCO.

We wrap up again, to face the cold, this time for a walk around the village.

We left through the main door that leads to the longest street in Aldeia Grande, where the table is already set and whose end, and principle, I cannot see. It is more than a kilometer long, this communal table set up for this purpose.

Everything is details of an immense affection for tradition, the table, with planks leaning against the top one by one, is not two feet wide, they are successively mounted on trestles, all handmade by local artisans and with wood from the region.

The linen towels, woven by the hands of the population, are specially created for the party if it were not for the region that produces this noble textile raw material. They pass from generation to generation, to be used on this day. Even the dishes and jars have a precept, if they are not old, they imitate and try to maintain tradition, and each villager takes his own. We are can distinguish who is from the village and who visits it for communion, only by the dishes and towels they share.

As if this table was not enough, here comes the invitation to visit the "kitchen". As I walked, I imagined an industrial kitchen producing huge quantities of food, judging by the number of people expected, coming from all the surroundings and even from the nearest cities.

I enter a shed with galvanized and painted green doors. There are so many people that I don’t understand what’s going on there, I don’t think it’s an aluminum kitchen with no history. But it was difficult to see what was going on by the number of people huddled in front of me. The aroma was delicious, between smoke and sausages, I was sure of that! Two minutes later, as the people in front of me dissipated, the “kitchen” became visible and there are no words to explain it: a crowd comes and goes, the photos do not cease, but the impressive bustle, blocked by so many people and some bars of the waist height, the most beautiful floor light I’ve ever seen inside the house appears. The diameter is so wide that it is embraced by a circle of 25 wrought iron pots. It is indescribable the heat that springs from there, the aroma that lingers there, the beauty of that circle, which has perpetuated for more than 300 years, but more importantly, the joy of those who are working there to offer food.

Smiling and warm people who, seeing my astonishment and enthusiasm, ask: "It's the first time, isn't it?" I have to pinch myself to believe that I lived 51 years without ever having come here, nor knowing of this magnificent party.

Looking back, about 17 years ago, I was fortunate enough to attend the festivities of The Holy Spirit, on Santa Maria Island. The 10 or so cauldrons, also over a terrible bonfire, were stirred with giant wooden spoons by 10 men who cooked in each one, a cow with the famous local turnips. At this party, there was a line with more than 100 people out of the house, waiting for the 40 people who ate the stew, in the dining room inside the house and next to the kitchen, to finish the meal, to sit as many others. This ritual was also the fulfillment of a promise to the Holy Spirit, which is made throughout the archipelago, slightly different on each island. The peculiarity of this communion: everyone sits at the same time, but nobody gets up while someone is eating.

But, back to Aldeia Grande, the same lady explains to me: “you have the right to visit the house from the inside”. I went on my way immediately, but I still didn't know what to expect. “Pass quickly and don't delay, please, we’ll start serving and it’s very complicated to have people around here”. I tried to comply, but I was not expecting to see the place where they keep the work of a week producing corn and rye bread. About 1 ton of flour transformed into the bread of approximately 2kg each, the room is lined with shelves, they store bread as if they were books, from floor to ceiling. The guardian couple explains they were fermented, kneaded, and cooked during this week.

I quickly returned to the street, to fulfill my promise. Outside, a bread was already being served meter by meter, two men, one on each side, holding a stick that goes through the cauldron with the smoked and cooked pig's bellies, distributing them with the same rhythm. Finally, the rice, cooked in the meats’ water, has a creamy appearance and an unmistakable flavor of good pork is served in a wooden bowl.

But first, and more importantly for that population, St. Sebastian passes, in the hands of the parish priest. All those who want to pay tribute, kiss the image and ask for another year of celebration, what no one imagined, at that moment, was that we would all need that patron, this year.

And lunch begins, with contagious joy, laughter, glasses of wine packed to the sound of the accordion. All in honor of St. Sebastian, who has been protecting this table so well for over three centuries.

On my side is the promise of the next visit, already marked the 20th of January 2021, in the calendar. You can join, take a good mood and desire to contribute to the party of 2022, with the purchase of bread.

Remember that the table has always been a place of worship for humanity. Help to maintain and improve this cult by protecting the best we have.

Therefore, it is foreseen for 2021, to have a big party, after all this plague let us embrace again.

Note: This text does not have any intention of religious constraint, it is elaborated with the utmost respect for a population, for their beliefs and homage to their gastronomic culture.