Fajã da Caldeira de Santo Cristo Bivalves

Fajã da Caldeira de Santo Cristo is known for its clams, which are very popular on the island of São Jorge. However, these bivalves can only be caught by two men, under the license granted by the Association of Clam Producers of Fajã das Caldeiras, in a maximum of 50 kilos per month. The point? Preserve the species.

The beginning of the high tide and low tide are the ideal moments to catch the Ruditapes decussatus clam, a protected species from the Fajã da Caldeira de Santo Cristo. Classified as a Nature Reserve since 1984, it is a kind of sanctuary on the edge of the Atlantic Ocean. The gigantic cliff lends the charm of the green, which extends almost to the fresh and salt waters that touch it.

"The diving suit is handy in the lake, in winter", says José Borges, president of the Association of Producers of Clams of Fajã das Caldeiras, owner of the restaurant O Borges, located in this Azorean village, and which makes snorkelling for catching this bivalve in the huge lagoon, which, despite forming a natural barrier, has an opening to the immense sea. “I've been licensed since 2003. The harvest is done when the tide is rising or running out because that's when the bottom is being cleaned”, explains the restorer. “It is not allowed by land or by sea”, he stresses. “Then, the clam is weighed and calibrated, and goes on its way to the fish market, where it is sold. Mine is practically all for restaurants.” The lesson was learned over time: "I saw what it was like and, today, I know when there are and when there are no clams."

Despite continuing to pick the Fajã clams from Caldeira de Santo Cristo, José Borges has already passed his restaurant O Borges (T: 918 650 613/910 113 930) into the hands of his sons Mónica and Marco Borges. In addition to being owners, both cook, and the clams remain on the menu. The choice divides between the clams à Bulhão Pato and the traditional recipe, which has hot sauce: “it’s an onion stew, and the sauce uses wine vinegar and a very hot sauce made with red chilli peppers. put a bunch of parsley at the end and cover it, to cook with steam.” The respective doses of each ingredient are in the secret of the gods.

The closed season runs from May 15th to August 15th, "which is when it is breeding", continues Raul Azevedo, another of those who have been licensed for about a decade to be able to catch the clam from Fajã da Caldeira de Santo Cristo. "We have to preserve what we have."

“But there is still a lot to improve. Playful picking has never been regulated and has to be regulated because it has led to the extermination of this clam”, warns José Borges.